Field Journal · Finland

A Week Above the Arctic Circle to See Santa's Village

Rovaniemi & Kemi, Finland Santa Claus Express · Arctic Circle Northern lights · SnowCastle By Kris Hehl

Rovaniemi calls itself the official hometown of Santa Claus, and I went in ready to roll my eyes. A week later I was the one telling everyone to go.

Rovaniemi sits right on the Arctic Circle in Finnish Lapland, about as far north as you can comfortably get by train in Finland. We gave it the better part of a week, then dropped south to Kemi on the coast for the snow castle.

A traveller in a dark jacket points up at the Santa Claus Finland reindeer logo on the side of a green and white double-decker VR train on a snowy platform in Rovaniemi.

The Santa Claus Express pulls in. The reindeer logo is not subtle, and I loved it.

Santa Claus Village

The Arctic Circle Runs Straight Through the Village

We came up overnight on the Santa Claus Express from Helsinki, a sleeper that runs while you sleep and lands you in Lapland by morning.

First stop was the Arctic Circle line painted across the ground at the village. You can stand with one foot on each side of it, which everyone does, me included.

A man in a beanie stands beside the tall red Arctic Circle marker post at Santa Claus Village under a bright blue winter sky.

The Arctic Circle line, marked at about 66 degrees north.

A visitor in a blue coat stands at the base of a tall red signpost stacked with dozens of yellow direction signs pointing to cities worldwide, log cabins and snow behind.

The signpost points everywhere. Vancouver did not make the cut.

The village is built around a signpost pointing to cities all over the world.

Vancouver was not on it, which felt a little rude.

The Santa Claus Village square at dusk: a tall lit Christmas tree, the peaked Arctic Circle building glowing gold, and a blue light strung across a snowy courtyard.

We ducked into the Santa Claus Office to warm up. Entry is free and Santa keeps year-round hours.

Santa Claus Village at blue hour: a fully lit Christmas tree at centre, the illuminated Arctic Circle tower at right, snow underfoot and a deep blue sky overhead.

Mid afternoon and the sky has already gone deep blue. This far north in December you get only a few hours of real light.

Aerial view of a cluster of red-roofed, turret-topped village hotel buildings ringed by snow-covered pine forest in Rovaniemi.

We stayed a few nights at the edge of the village. Here it is from above, red roofs and all.

A clean Nordic hotel bathroom with a pale wood-slatted ceiling, a round backlit mirror, a glass walk-in shower and an open door to a small private wood-lined sauna.

The room came with its own sauna. I used it every night, sometimes twice.

The room came with its own sauna, which up here is less a treat than a default setting.

Finland has more saunas than cars, and after a day in the cold you understand exactly why.

There are reindeer everywhere in Lapland, most of them semi-domesticated and herded by the Sami.

This one let me get close for a photo before losing interest entirely.

A smiling man takes a selfie crouched beside a reindeer with felted antlers in a snowy clearing fringed by pine and a red cabin.

A reindeer that tolerated the selfie, then went back to ignoring me.

Out of Town

Fire, Faint Green Light, and a Canyon of Frozen Waterfalls

Three people in winter jackets sit on reindeer hides around an open fire under a wooden lavvu shelter at night, hands stretched toward the flames.

Every aurora tour starts the same way: a fire, hot juice, and a lot of hoping.

One night we booked a northern lights tour. It opens with a fire, hot berry juice, and a long stretch of standing around in the cold.

Half of chasing the aurora is just being outside, patient, when it decides to show.

A man in a dark jacket and beanie stands among tall pines on snow at night, a faint green band of aurora glowing low in the sky behind the treeline.

It came out faint and green over the treeline. My phone barely caught it, but you can see the glow.

Back at the room we worked through a haul of Finnish beer and chocolate.

The Fazer chocolate lives up to the hype, and the Lapin Kulta is literally named for Lapland's gold.

A spread of Finnish canned beers including Lapin Kulta, Karhu and Sandels laid out beside Fazer chocolate bars and a bag of reindeer chips on a grey table in sunlight.

The haul: Finnish beer, Fazer chocolate, and a bag of reindeer chips.

A smiling man in a grey sweater holds up a dark foil bag of Polarica dried and smoked reindeer chips in a hotel room.

Reindeer chips: dried and smoked, lean and dark, and very good.

We also tried reindeer chips, which are exactly what they sound like: dried, smoked reindeer.

Reindeer has fed people up here for generations. Strange to buy, very good to eat.

A lone hiker stands at the foot of a towering pale-blue frozen waterfall in the Korouoma canyon, surrounded by deep snow and dark spruce, a trail sign reading MAMMUTTI in front.

Mammutti, the biggest of the Korouoma frozen falls. It draws ice climbers from across Europe in winter.

South to the Coast

Kemi, and a Castle Rebuilt From Snow Every Winter

Aerial view of a long row of white glass-roofed seaside villas lined along a frozen shoreline beside a modern resort building in Kemi, Finland.

After Rovaniemi we dropped south to Kemi on the Gulf of Bothnia and based ourselves in these glass villas along the frozen sea.

Kemi rebuilds its SnowCastle from scratch every winter out of snow and packed ice, with a new design each year.

It has been going since the mid-1990s and still feels improbable once you are standing inside it.

A man in a beanie and backpack stands inside the Kemi SnowCastle beside a carved snow relief of a bare tree and a sign reading KEMI.FINLAND, an arched snow tunnel leading deeper inside.

Inside the SnowCastle. The carving is the kind of thing you photograph badly and stare at properly.

A child in a blue coat looks at a hall of backlit ice sculptures under a canopy of fairy lights inside the Kemi SnowCastle, a glowing orange circus tent carved in ice at the rear.

A whole hall of ice sculptures lit from below. The year we went, the theme was a circus.

A week was enough to settle into the rhythm of the place and still leave plenty we never got to. The dog sledding, the icebreaker cruise, half the trails we walked past.

Reasons to come back, basically. More from this trip to come.

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